Which PAM Should You Use?
Polyacrylamide comes in three charge types. Matching the grade to what's actually suspended in your water makes the difference between a fast, clean floc and no reaction at all.
Quick Reference
| What's in the water | Use | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Organics — sewage, food waste, biosolids | Cationic PAM (CPAM) | These particles are generally negatively charged |
| Inorganics — silt, dirt, clay, mineral turbidity | Anionic PAM (APAM) | These particles are often (but not always) positively charged |
| General clarifier use, uncharged particles | Non-ionic PAM (NPAM) | Bridges particles physically rather than by charge |
Cationic PAM (CPAM) — for organics
If what you're clarifying is mostly organic — sewage, food waste, biosolids, or other organic-matter-heavy water — reach for cationic PAM. Organic particles like these are generally negatively charged, so the positive charge on CPAM neutralizes them and bridges them into larger, faster-settling flocs.
Anionic PAM (APAM) — for silt, dirt & inorganics
If you're mainly dealing with silt, dirt, clay, or other mineral/inorganic turbidity, anionic PAM is usually the better fit. These particles are often positively charged — especially the iron- and aluminum-oxide-coated soils common in Southwest desert dirt — so the negative charge on APAM neutralizes and bridges them. (Not all silt or clay behaves this way; if APAM doesn't seem to be working, it's worth trying CPAM instead.)
Non-ionic PAM (NPAM) — for general clarifier use
When the particles you're settling aren't strongly charged either way — or you're not sure what's actually in the water — non-ionic PAM is the safest general-purpose choice. It works by physically bridging particles together rather than relying on charge neutralization, which is why it's the default flocculant in the Essentials Kit.